2017年4月9日日曜日
Porcheret - Pommard(s) Chanlins & Fremiers and Volnay Champans 14
Tasted on the 8th of April: Porcheret's Pommard 1er Cru Chanlins, Pommard 1er Cru Fremiers and
Volnay 1er Cru Champans, all vintage 14.
Bottles were opened 12 hours in advance.
Winemaker Cataldina Lippo uses full destemming, cold soaking, long ageing in barrels
16/18 months. About 1/3 new oak for barrels.
Pommard PC Chanlins. Light color but powerful. Great tension in mouth, very long, complex, great retro-olfaction. Superb.
Pommard PC Fremiers. May be more elegant than the Chanlins, that is a matter of taste...
Tannins are smoother, may a bit more complex, quite deep. Superb retro-olfaction too.
Volnay PC Champans. Tannins are even smoother... May be due to a warmer parcel? Style seems to be slightly different (?). Color is darker than the two other wines, a little troubled, it looks a bit like a Bordeaux wine. Enjoyable but not as the level of the other two wines, at least on that day.
All these wines are designed for ageing. They can be drunk in 10 or 15 years without problems. The style of these wines is very precise. It was really interesting to compare these three PC wines. This tasting confirmed that burgundian wines from very close parcels can really taste differently. And this shows also that the winemaker is good with a very precise style.
PS - 10th of April: I had an email conversation with Cataldina Lippo who made these three wines. (She is now in the US to present her wines.) Since the Volnay tasted slightly different from the two Pommards I asked whether she really apllied the same vinification processes for the three wines. And her answer is clear: she dis exactly the same vinification for the three wines!!! She said that Champans needs to be waited for. She knows her wines better than I do but I have this feeling too. Champans is still too fruity with amylic aromas right now.
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